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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.